Swimming Pool Maintenance Premier Villas Costa Blanca

F.A.Q's

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Q: Sand is at the bottom of my pool?

A: The sand you are using could be too small, which will go through the filter system, then back into the pool. Remove the sand and replace it with the proper grade of sand - #20 Silica or 45-55mm pool sand, which can be found at your local pool dealer. Your pump may be too big for your filter. So when you are backwashing the pressure can cause the sand to rise high enough and overflow into the standpipe, which will allow the sand back into the pool. Refer to your Owner's Guide for the correct amount of sand your filter requires. There could be a cracked/broken or loose lateral located in the bottom of your filter. You will need to either replace if cracked/broken or tighten any loose laterals. Most calcium based chlorine, both powder or tablets contain from 30 - 35% of what is called inert materials. This is calcium residue or dust, which many pool owners mistake for sand. You can confirm this by following these next few steps: During vacuuming, use a hand vac and pole, the sand will lay on the bottom. As the vac head approaches, it will allow itself to be picked up. Calcium residue will scatter away from the vac head as you try to pick it up. Some will be picked up and some will scatter. If you do have this problem, we recommend that you put some extra water in your pool and vacuum to the waste line. Vacuum as fast as possible, this will remove the dust from your pool system. If you vacuum to the filter, some of it will be trapped on the sand surface, allowing some of the dust to get back into your pool

Q: How long will the sand last in my sand filter?

A: Most sand will last between 3-5 years, if ‘backwashed’ and cleaned properly.

Q: How long should I filter my pool each day?

A: Most pools should be filtered at least 8-12 hours a day during the swimming season, preferably during the day or when swimmers use the pool.

Q: How do I backwash my filter?

A: Backwashing depends if you have a side mount "push and pull" valve or a "multi port" valve. The push pull valve only does that. It goes up to back wash and down for normal filter operation. You will need to make sure that you turn off your system before you do any changes with your valve. So to speak you would 1. Turn off pump 2. Change valve to back wash (pull up on push pull valve or push down and turn the valve on a multi port valve) 3. Turn on system. 4.if you can see the discharge of water then continue till the water clears. If you cant then about 1 to 2 minutes should be fine. 5. Turn off system 6. Move valve back to original position. Keep in mind that you should only backwash when needed. That is when the pressure is high on the pressure gauge. After you backwash for the first time make note of the pressure after your done. Then you will not need to backwash till the pressure is 10 to 12 pounds over the starting or clean pressure. So if you start at 10 don't backwash till you get to 22

Q: If I have algae in my pool, what should I do?

A: Depending on the type of algae (there are several types) the treatment will vary. You should take a water sample into your local dealer for testing. They will be able to help you choose the correct treatment and chemicals for your type of algae.

Q: Why does my pool water turn my hair green?

A: When your pool water contains metals, they can turn your hair green. If you are having this problem, the best solution is to take a water sample to be tested for metals at your nearest dealer. If you have metals present, they can recommend a solution

Q: What causes eye irritation?

A: If your pool is not balanced properly, this could lead to eye and skin irritations. That is why it is essential to balance your pool water properly.

Q: Why is my pool cloudy?

A: It can be a variety of things. Check to make sure your running your filter system enough each day, also make sure your water is balanced out properly.

Q: If I have water mould, what should I do?

A: If the pool uses chlorine or bromine, the first step is to brush the sides and bottom thoroughly. If you think you might have missed a few maintenance algaecide applications, add an initial dose of your algaecide (algae and fungal growths usually indicate inconsistent algaecide applications). Next, shock with three times the normal dose of Aqua Chlorine or Aqua Burn. Allow the filter to circulate overnight. Repeat as necessary.

When the procedure is complete, chemically clean the filter.

Q: I keep adding chlorine, but when I test my water, there's no chlorine reading. Why?

A: The reason for the absence of a chlorine reading is that your chlorine is tied-up. It is combined with amine groups causing your chlorine to be inactive. This is commonly called chlorine demand.

What you need to do is shock or super-chlorinate your pool. Shocking your pool will cause the chlorine to free up. Double and triple levels of super-chlorination may be depleted within hours of application. Often the pool water will be sparkling and attractive while this problem is taking place. In some cases, the chlorine stabiliser disappears and cannot be measured

Q: What causes chlorine demand?

A: There are many causes for chlorine demand and in most cases - there is no one cause for a particular chlorine demand but several combined: algae, fertiliser contamination, excessive chlorine accumulation, rain, pollution, excessive cover debris rinsed or dumped in pool, source water (sometimes municipal water supplies contain chloramines), organic and other contaminates in source water (ponds, lakes, well water, vandalism, etc

Q: This is the second year I have had chlorine demand what do I do?

A: We recommend that if you have had a continuous problem with chlorine demand, you shock your pool weekly. Or empty and re-fill your swimming pool.

Q: What if my pool is losing water?

A: This may mean you have a leak. It may just be evaporation. Try a simple 'bucket test'.

Use a 5 litre plastic bucket. Fill it 3/4 with pool water and set it on the top step in the pool. Mark the level of water in the bucket and mark the level of water on the water line of the pool. Wait 24 hours and see how much water has 'evaporated' from the bucket and how much is 'missing' from the pool. You can do this for 1 or 2 or more days. If the water from the bucket and the pool 'drops' at about the same rate then the loss is due to evaporation. It is not uncommon to lose 1/4" per day due to evaporation. That is 1 to 1 1/2 inches per week.

If the pool 'loses' more water than the bucket and it is not excessive 'splash out' then you may have a leak. A leak can be somewhere in the pool structure, the piping or the equipment itself. At the point of really believing that you have a leak then contact a local service company to assist you.

Remember water loss will cost you additionally for not just the water, but also the heat and chemicals to treat the new water. Get leaks repaired sooner rather than later?

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